I had been a resident of Belgium for approximately four hours when an entirely wonderful thing happened to me. I was standing in Brussels’ most romantic square, gazing through the window of the country’s most prestigious chocolate shop, completely entranced by a master chocolatier hard at work inside, when he lifted his head, saw what I can only presume must have been a look of intense fascination on my face, and started to laugh. In a sequence that could have been lifted straight from a schmaltzy movie, he beckoned to me to come inside, and handed me the exquisite truffle…

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