A wander through Positano’s pretty, pastel streets

The morning we set off for Positano was one of indecision and false starts. In the end, we found ourselves bundling into two separate cars and, with the windows rolled down, carefully hugging the via Nastro Azurro all the way along the coast using bright, white Atrani shining in the distance like a beacon as our waypoint. As we neared Positano we played peekaboo with the town as the road concertinaed in, then out, then in again in line with the deep folds of the cliff face. Then, pulling around the final bend, we commenced mission: find somewhere to park.…

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The best of Rome

Visiting the cultural, historical, gastronomical, architectural behemoth that is Rome without a plan of attack would be a fool’s errand by any stretch of the imagination. With a blow-by-blow itinerary that included tactical naps, pre-booked, timed tickets, backup bars and restaurants and backups for the backups, there was no way I was going the Eternal City slip through my fingers on my very first trip. I know — I sound like the tourist of nightmares. But I’d like it to be known this is not my preferred approach to a city break. Ideally I’d like to stay for a month,…

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Wild swimming in Puglia’s hidden coves

Crunk! Like distant cannon fire, the thunder bounces long and menacing around the rocky rounded inlets due south of where we stand. The sky is split in two as starkly as a half moon cookie, and Porto Selvaggio sits on the dividing line. Just as we settle ourselves on an outcrop to the north of the bay where the sky is still pale, lightning slices through the sky above the squat, square Torre Santa Maria dell’Alto. There is nothing for it, we must turn on our heels and retrace our steps to the car with everyone else on the beach.…

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